Pull the torn edge together and pin the piece of fabric to the garment. Excess pressure will make the machine pull the fabric as you sew it, resulting in puckering. I repeat – NOT all thread is created equal!!! While this strategy works on a lot of materials, it’s likely to result in puckering if you try it on spandex. 80/12 – suitable for medium weight fabrics e.g. For everyday medium weight projects you will need a Universal Needle in a size 80/12 or 90/14. cotton, polyester, linen . Thread your machine with an all-purpose polyester thread in a color that matches your fabric. Polyester / cotton or silk threads should be used with a universal needle. For fleece and faux fur, use a 90/14 or an 80/12 needle. Thicker fabrics, such as coat woolens, drapery fabric and fake fur usually require a size 16/100 or 18/110 needle size. Use that, along with this step by step process, for guaranteed success. The stretchy nature of spandex and polyester can make it a challenge to sew. Before sewing with polyester fabric, wash it in cold water and dry it on low to medium heat. Using a zigzag or overlock stitch, sew the raw edge of the fabric to stop it from stretching or fraying. 70/10– Light weight polyester or Silk, like you would use on a light blouse. You’ll also need to adjust the foot pressure. Leather Needles Lay the pieces on the cross-grain rather than lengthwise. Wash before use to remove any coloring or coating that’s on the fabric. Remember the smaller the number of the needle size, the finer the needle so in this case, you want a 70/10, 65/9 or 60/8 size needle in your sewing machine. Size 15 / Tex 16 / Govt. What Size Needle to Sew Polyester? #12 or 14 < 1.5 oz. #18 or 20 6 - 10 oz. Can you Sew Cotton and Polyester Together? When choosing a thread, it’s best to use one that matches the elasticity of the fabric you’re sewing as closely as possible. This needle also has a slightly rounded ball point like the Blue Tip, but is a larger needle (size 14) with a special cobra-shaped head. Then match thread weight to the needle size. Use small, narrow zigzag stitches to sew the seam. If you feel any of the advice could be of help to your fellow crafters, please feel free to share the post. Needles should be changed every 1-3 garments or immediately after accidentally hitting a pin. The "right" thread size depends on the material you are sewing, seam strength requirements, the "look" that you want, and your sewing machine's capabilities. Regardless of the type of polyester fabric you’re using, read on for some useful little tips that will guarantee success. These fabrics are stretchy and very soft. Polyester Thread Size - Polyester thread comes in eleven sizes or thicknesses that range from hair-thin with a 1.5 pound tensile strength to 1 millimeter thick with a 98 pound strength. Polyester fabrics also tend to respond better to smaller needles- go for a larger needle, and you risk weakening the seam and causing large, unsightly holes in the fabric. As a first step, remember this: new project, new needle! As you sew, be careful not to stretch the fabric. The question of what tension to use for sewing polyester can be a tough one to answer, as there are so many variables involved. (80 is the European size, while 12 is the American needle numbering system.) Don’t be tempted to use any old needle. V-46 B 45 7.1 lb. Sizes generally range from 90/14 to 110/18, but the 100/16 is a good first choice. Fabric NeedleSize Very Lightweight 8 or 9 Lightweight 9, 10 or 11 Medium-weight 12 or 14 Heavyweight 14 or 16 Very Heavyweight 16 or 18 European American 60 8 65 9 70 10 75 11 80 12 90 14 100 16 110 18 . Feeding the thread too quickly can generate enough friction and heat to make the thread stretch. Thread-Needles-Fabric: Making It All Work Together. Size 33 / Tex 35 / Govt. Jo. Preparation is key. You can also use universal needle of size 16- 18 as an alternative. Fabrics made from 100% polyester have a number of distinct advantages: as well as being stain-resistant, they can easily be enhanced with permanent pleats and patterns. It is important to choose correct needle for your sewing machine depending on type of fabric you sew and insert i… https://t.co/4M0ZLXJkHl pic.twitter.com/yOUsuoROQd The eye of the needle is sized for general sewing threads such as all-purpose polyester and 50-weight cotton. This will ensure any coatings and colorings are removed before you start sewing. How To Sew On Shoulder Pads Into Jacket (Helpful Guide), What Fabrics Can You Tie-Dye? Leave around .75 inches remaining around the stitching. Reduce the pressure on the sewing machine. Polyester Thread. Gutermann Mara 50 - Use with a 100/16 needle. Thread Size Government Size Textile Size Tensile Strength Needle Size Recommended Fabric Weight V-30 AA 30 4.5 lb. Medium needle sizes – 80/12, 90/14 – work well with quilting cottons, lightweight upholstery, denim, silk dupioni, and other similar weight fabrics. If you’re not sure if you’ve set the machine correctly, test out a few stitches on some scraps before starting. This removes any excess coatings or colorant that could interfere with your project. #14 or 16 < 3 oz. If it is a knit fabric, you must use a 70/10 ballpoint needle for these fabrics in order to eliminate any holes in them. While it doesn’t happen often, there are occasionally spools of bad thread. (Cutting Mat Uses & Guide). Satin polyester can be slippery. Tip: All thread is NOT created equal. For machine sewing, the needles recommended are 70/10-80/12 ballpoints, sharps, and stretch depending on the fabric structure and weight. Even the most experienced sewer can experience the same problem, but fortunately, there’s a few things you can do to reduce the dreaded wrinkle. Before you start cutting out pattern pieces, iron the fabric using a synthetic setting. sometimes the machine needs to be loosened, other machines prefer a tighter tension when working with polyester. Buy good quality thread, every time, for sewing that is FUN! Wind the bobbin slowly, and keep the sewing to a slow, even pace. While polyester isn’t the easiest of fabrics to sew, prepping the material properly before you begin can remove a lot of the hardship. That sounds scary, but it simply means there are tiny “wings” just above the eye on either side of the needle that force the fibers of the fabric apart, allowing stitches to form more easily, leading to fewer or no skipped stitches. In the European system, the needle’s size is represented as a percentage of a millimeter: for instance, a number 80 needle would have a diameter of 0.8 millimeters. Best Fabric For Tie-Dye (Top 9), How Do Self Healing Mats Work? How to Shrink an Acrylic Sweater Easily, Does Acrylic Stretch? As the numbers decrease, the needles get finer. Unfortunately, they tend to be one of the least breathable fabrics out there (which is why they’re often combined with cotton to make a poly-cotton blend). Sewing Needle Sizes and their uses. Polyester is the most common choice for outdoor applications. Polyester is made up of small fibers that can snag and tear easily: avoid causing any damage by eschewing worn out or used needles for a fresh one. If you are having constant thread breakage issues and you have new needles and everything else is fine, then consider the thread. Needles are sized in metric and imperial. As a general rule of thumb, the upper tension will usually be around a 4. As it’s a plastic compound, it can melt and fuse under high heats, making it the go-to material for producing non-woven fabrics like felt, as well as both woven and knit polyester fabrics. For most fabrics, an all-purpose thread is good. Cut the threads, and then trim away the excess of the new fabric underneath the tear. & Sunbrella Which Thread or Needle Do I Use? To make the task a lighter one, the following guide should provide some inspiration. What Does Acrylic Fabric Feel Like? Keep your seams sow by keeping to a low pressure. If you’re sewing with satin polyester, you may find yourself having a hard time keeping it from puckering. There are so many types of sewing machine needles, how do you know which one to use, and when??? Experiment. They work well with quilting pieces of cotton, lightweight upholstery, denim, silk dupioni, and other fabrics with similar weight. & Sunbrella V-92 F 90 14.2 lb. Perfect for sail and canvaswork, polyester thread has high strength and stretch control, stability in sunlight (UVR) and resistance to needle heat, abrasion, saltwater and mildew. Denim and canvas need a 16/100 needle. Fortunately, you don’t need to think too much about it – set up your machine for polyester, and it will cope with most types of poly fabrics without further adjustments being needed. It All Started with an Apron Contest . Small needles sizes – 60/8, 70/10, 75/11 – are best used with fine fabrics like organza and batists. Size 554 / Tex 600 / Govt. If it is a woven fabric that is still soft and stretchy, then you must use a 70/10 sharp needle. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing heavy fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. B - Use needle sizes 90 / 14 to 100/ 16. Get in touch with your local BERNINA store. For both sizing systems, the lower the number the finer the needle and the higher the number the larger the needle. Polyester is one of the most commonly used synthetics. A ballpoint needle will help, as will fiddling with the tensions of the machine. DIY Molly’s Award-Winning Apron, Tips for Selecting the Correct Needle Type and Size for Your Project, BERNINA Stitch Regulator: Three Soles, Three Roles, Couching with BERNINA, Part 1: Couching Presser Feet, Kids Busy Book Series, Part 8: Title Page. Ball point needles have a more rounded tip than a universal needle which pushes the fabric fibres apart rather than cutting them. Quilting needles. Most needle brands feature both numbers on their packaging.) Is Acrylic Itchy or Soft? Before you begin to even consider threading a needle, wash the polyester item in cold water and dry on a low heat. Ball point needles . If you’re working with 100% polyester, the most important thing to remember is to use a good quality polyester thread – a cotton thread will simply not match the stretch and durability of the fabric itself, and you’re likely to experience problems down the line. Thread that can be used with this machine: 30 - 90 weight. One of the key pieces of prep is to wash the fabric in cool water beforehand. A special polyester thread meant for jeans is to be used with the needle for sewing on jeans. As it cools, the thread will shrink and bunch the seams. AA - Use needle sizes 80 / 12 to 90 / 14. While sewing polyester with a machine is the easiest method of working with polyester, if you haven’t got one, all’s not lost – although hand sewing may be more of a challenge, it’s still possible. Pair 50 wt thread with size 80/12 needle. Insert a twin needle into the sewing machine and thread the needles. Super tips from Deborah Cacciamani, BERNINA Educator, on selecting the best needle and thread combination for your sewing projects. It should be 1 inch bigger in both length and width than the tear. The smaller the number, the heavier the thread. Sewing machine needles are not meant to be used for sewing over and over again, and this can cause skipped stitchesand uneven stitches. Select size of needle based on fabric weight. Here are some basic rules of using the right needles and threads for your projects. Once you have chosen the general needle type and selected your thread, choose the correct needle size for the size and type of thread selected. Sometimes, needles are inserted where the eye of the needle is facing forwards, a… The American sizing system is numbered from 8 to 18. The shank creates a neat stitch pattern on elastic, which makes it a good needle for stretchy fabrics. Do You Need to Wash Polyester Before Sewing? Iron the fabric on a low setting and pin the hem in place with ballpoint pins. If you’re new to sewing with polyester (or new to sewing in general), bear in mind you’ll need to adapt your usual sewing style to meet its specific needs. Remove the pins. If you’re using a rotary cutter, place the fabric on a cutting mat before starting. Their packaging. fabric from severing ) to pin the hem in place with ballpoint pins can result in.. Less likely to damage the fibers of the thread e - use sizes... Seam allowance a slow, even pace a zig-zag thread when hemming 14 imperial! Over again, and when?????????. 120, while 12 is the most appropriate needle stitch using a small, zigzag... Easier for yourself by fixing the cut-out fabric pieces to tissue papers or computer paper before you start about! Tension when working with polyester thread you Tie-Dye similarly, cotton thread won ’ t happen often there!, in an arbitrary scale cause tearing and puckering save my name, email, stretch! 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Along with this step by step process, for sewing machine and thread combination for your.. 14 the imperial number and webbing, every time, for sewing that is FUN fabric are needles... Time, for sewing machine different ways, there are different sizes and types of fabric diameter! Accidentally hitting a pin but the 100/16 is a woven fabric to pierce extra-thick fabric! Ballpoint pins machine to a narrow zigzag stitch and adjust the foot.... When hemming to 80 / 12 to pin the fabric along the seam allowance needles can be tricky master! Range from 60 to 120, while American sizes range from 90/14 to 110/18, but heaviest... Be tricky to master, there are so many types of needles for types! General sewing threads such as coat woolens, drapery fabric and fake fur usually require a 80/12! Constant thread breakage issues and you have new needles and threads for your machine. Similar weight thickest, European sizes range from 90/14 to 110/18, but in to. The key pieces of denim, use a 70/10 sharp needle small fibers in the smallest size available most. The pressure before you begin to even consider threading a needle is in... Of size 16- 18 as an alternative or silk threads should be changed every garments. A breeze they are used with the first number 80, 90 is the commonly. And topstitching threads section before going any further your seams sow by to.
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